A Golden Age of Time-Only Watches
A personal essay, some killer internet finds, and what we're into this week.
Hey Everyone! This is the first official newsletter from The Enthusiasts and we think it’s a good one.
To kick things off, Stephen’s written an essay about the current moment we find ourselves in as watch-lovers and why he’s so darn excited about it. Then we’ve got a round-up some some awesome watches that caught our attention during our usual online perusals (the kinds of things we’re Whatsapp-ing back-and-forth almost constantly, much to our partners’ dismay). And to finish it off, we call out the things we’re feeling most enthuisastic about this week.
As a quick reminder, this newsletter is free, but starting next week our The Enthusiasts’ podcasts and newsletters will be for paid subscribers only. We can’t believe the response we’ve gotten so far – thank you! – and we’re excited to see more of you come along for the ride soon enough.
Best,
Justin & Stephen
We’re Living in the Golden Age of Time-Only Watches
When we talk about golden ages, we’re almost always speaking in the past tense. The golden age of Hollywood, the golden age of baseball, and so on. But sometimes it’s important to take a second, look around, and realize you’re in the midst of something awesome. Something special, even. Dare I say it…in the midst of a golden age.
I became seriously interested in watches in the early 2010s, right as the period of insane early-aughts watch design was ebbing and the industry was starting to find its footing again after the global financial crisis. The decade or so that ensued, as I was learning and finding my footing, was dominated by more than a few major trends. None of them were for me, really. An arms race to see which big brand could make the most complicated wrist and pocket watches imaginable. An obsession with chronographs of all kinds. And, obviously, everyone and their mother needed to make a luxury steel sports watch with a geometric motif and an integrated bracelet. Obviously.
But I’m happy to report that while those things haven’t disappeared, a new trend has been taking shape over the last few years and I don’t think it’s even started to peak yet: exceptional time-only watches.
As far as I’m concerned, this is the good stuff. Anyone who has seen the watches in my collection (scroll my Instagram for a taste) will know that I’m a sucker for a three-hander, and a date window is about as complicated as I get in my own watch box. I’ve owned chronographs and I find myself never using them, generally selling them pretty quickly. Calendars can be fun, but the ones I like are typically out of my budget. A time-only watch is what I want to put on each morning and they’re also the kinds of watches that I find most intellectually engaging. So I’m biased.
But beyond personal preference, I love what time-only watches symbolize. They put away the bells and whistles and ask us to look at the details as closely as possible, to pay attention to every little element, because, frankly, there is nowhere else to turn. They’re intellectually rigorous and demand something from both the creator and the wearer. “Simple things are the hardest to do well” is a cliche at this point, but it’s become that for a reason and I think the principle holds true. There is nowhere to hide and when executed well a time-only watch can feel almost perfect, as if it just had to exist the way that it does.
Importantly, a great time-only watch can be found at nearly every price point imaginable. A $135 Swatch on a mesh bracelet is killer. I travel with one when I don’t want to have anything “serious” on my wrist (I’m looking at you, London). Grand Seiko, Cartier, Rolex, and IWC all make excellent time-only watches in different styles and with price tags between $5,000-10,000. And if you want to go all-out, the Chronomètre Contemporain II from Rexhep Rexhepi, Simon Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans, and the Biver Automatique are just a few examples of people pushing the genre to the next level, often in inventive ways.
And this is why I think we’re in a golden age. The best watchmakers of the day, the most creative minds in the industry, and the savviest collectors in the world are all, at once, turning their attention to time-only watches. They’re not afterthoughts or introductory models – they’re the main attraction and they’re getting the same mindshare typically paid to perpetual calendars, chronographs, and the like. When’s the last time you were hanging out with collector friends and got into a heated argument about dial fonts on a vintage Dayonta? Yeah, I can’t remember either. Now how about the last time you heard gushing about the Berneron Mirage? That’s going to be a “yesterday” from me.
Some of this comes down to simple math: Trends change. That’s what they do and it’s how all taste-based pursuits work. Whether we’re talking fashion, furniture, fiction, whatever – nothing is in favor forever and it’s the constant state of change that keeps most of us interested, no matter how “classic” we think our own taste might be. So after a decade of watching complicated watches set world records one after another, it’s not surprising that time-only watches are having a moment.
But I do think it runs deeper than that. Some of this started earlier, but in the wake of the COVID boom, brands big and small are having to actually try to sell watches again. They’re having to dig deep, come up with new ideas, and find ways to entice customers. This means offering things that feel new and fresh, delivering real value and a sense of enduring appeal. It can’t be the same things they’ve been staring at on Instagram for the last 10 years.
Likewise, we have a new crop of upstart brands doing incredibly creative things with time-only watches (Anoma is a personal favorite) at all price points. The days of having to start with something boring until you can afford something interesting are way over. And when it comes to vintage and pre-owned watches, many of the hot complicated pieces have become so expensive over the last decade-plus that they’re essentially unobtainable for all but the heaviest hitters. Coming all at once, these factors are helping shape the taste of a new generation of collectors, creating a positive feedback loop that creates more demand for these kinds of watches, incentivizing the makers to give them continued attention. Positive momentum at its best.
Ultimately, that’s what gets me most excited about this idea: that we’re just getting started. Last April I went to Switzerland for the first time since 2019, for Watches & Wonders, and I was blown away by what I saw. More creativity, more energy, and more optimism than I’d expected. Watches that were doing a lot more with a lot less. People starting brands and making watches rooted in rich ideas instead of revenue goals or marketing plans. It juiced me up big time and is no small part of why Justin and I started The Enthusiasts.
So let’s soak it in. We’re living in a golden age – enjoy the glitter while it lasts.
- Stephen Pulvirent
Watch Picks of the Week
Like most watch-lovers, we spend way too many of our free moments looking around for cool watches online. Here are a few of our favorites at the moment:
At the end of the day, a 1970s gold Submariner might be my favorite precious metal sports watch of all time. Am I cool enough to wear one? No way. Would I absolutely do it anyway and fake it? You bet I would. –SJP
Piaget has blown up in recent years, primarily as a result of its glorious stone dials, shapes, and colors. One of THE most elegant shapes ever made is the Black Tie “Warhol” watch. While some variations are available in boutiques, most are unique, and this white gold and malachite version is absoultely spectacular. Big and bold no doubt, but there's nothing quite like it. –JH
We talked about the new Daniel Roth Souscription Ultra Plat in Episode 1 of the pod and I’ll admit I’ve been on a bit of a DR hunt as a result. I’m not actually in the market right now, but if I was this is probably the one I’d buy. –SJP
I am absolutely obsessed with wearability right now and one independent that's caught my eye is the Romain Gauthier C. The full name is "Continuum" and it’s an incredible evolution in Gauthier's work. It's divisive. Some love it, some hate it. But that's part of the charm to me. That, and the fact that my mates who own one don't take it off! –JH
I love watches like this. Small, relatively inexpensive, and full of character. This one happens to come with a glossy black dial, a gold-fill case, and a cool story, too. It’s hard to imagine finding much more for under $1,500. –SJP
I love the Royal Oak. Who doesn’t?? But having owned one, I found the bracelet, while super comfortable, very “loud.” It really caught the light. So, controversially, I’m picking an odd-ball reference – it’s 36mm, comes on a strap, and was made to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Pictet & Cie, the Swiss bank. I just love this supremely bizzare tie up and how it would likely never happen again. –JH
What We’re Enthusiastic About
I grew up with a mentor who was incredibly well dressed. Old money, with a taste for tailoring, he appreciated design and craft whereever it could be found. I look back and feel blessed that was in my life. He would endlessly point out materials, colours, and shapes of things to me, from fabrics in a souk to the lighting in a room. He inspired me to be an observer. As a result, I’ve found a great love of items that you wear over and over again, such as this wax jacket from Drake’s I picked up earlier this year. The wax jacket generally has connotation’s of country living, welly boots, and privilege, but this particular variation, with raglan shoulders, in navy blue, and with a dark brown cord collar, wears wonderfully in an urban setting. And the coolest part: It’s only going to get better and better with age.
-Justin
I had to quit drinking coffee because of migraines about 10 years ago and I got pretty deep into Japanese tea as a result. Kettl, my favorite tea purveyor in New York, opened their first LA outpost last weekend and I’m psyched. I’ve already got a pilgrimage planned for later this week to try some new teas and maybe pick up a piece of ceramics (or two) if I’m feeling saucy. If you’re looking for a place to start, I’d recommend the no-fuss sencha tea bags and approachable Shinme matcha, and the Fuyo No Hana sencha and Shirakawa Uji Hikari matcha are two personal favorites if you want to go a layer deeper. Elevating a little daily ritual like that first morning cup or an after-lunch pick-me-up makes is so simple and, for me, makes a huge difference in my day. It’s a moment to pause, to do something kind for myself, and to reflect before jumping into the chaos on the other side.
-Stephen
Your article really speaks to me as I’ve been wearing time only watches more often then any other type, for pretty much the same reasons. Here’s to the Enthusiasts!
Very nice initial effort. Who doesn’t love a good three (or two) hander? And nice of you to go beyond watches with fashion and tea! I’m excited to be part of The Enthusiasts. Keep up the excellent writing and podcasting.